Two Months in the MarquesasPosted: April 2, 2001
April 2, 2001
We anchored in Atuona on the island of Hiva Oa -what an entrance with spectacular peaks all around! Although we had generally light winds, this was a good trip -3000 miles in 18 days, about 1000 miles too long! The harbor is behind a breakwater and is always unsettled from the swell. This harbor was crowded with eight boats, but we like Atuona as a town. Three weeks later there were twenty boats here! We had forgotten how incredibly stunning these islands are!
April 5, 2001
Atuona: Strange algae grew on the long crossing. Hard to get off until Heidi tried Clorox. Took tour around Hiva Oa. Very difficult roads. Used Peperu as guide, definitely a Marquesan Nationalist. Knows a lot. Spent a good day with him. Café Kaupe did laundry for us: 5 loads, $7500CPF ($68 USD)
April 9, 2001
Hanaiapa on north side of Hiva Oa -- still a favorite. Great hiking here to the next valley. Taylor caught a ride to airport. Pouring rain of course. We will miss him, but glad to get boat back to ourselves as well -- a mixed blessing. Met REMORA here with Guy and Chris, a Belgian couple, who we crossed paths with in several places during the next few months. We really looked forward to seeing them with their wonderful sense of humor and ability to converse fluently in both French and English
April 13, 2001
We motorsailed to windward around the Eastern point of Hiva Oa for a better angle on the wind down to Fatu Hiva, Big squalls all day and we arrived at the Hana Vave in a blinding squall, but that made it all the more spectacular as it cleared. Fatu Hiva is easily one of the top anchorages in the world -simply spectacular!
April 14, 2001
Williwaws down through the valley kept us up part of the night so we moved into shallower water (we were anchored in 75ft). This was a mistake as the boat lies well in deep water with the weight of the chain keeping the bow steadier in the gusts.
April 22, 2001
Nine days in Fatu Hiva. What a treat; finally the cruising life has begun. Hiking, diving, working on the boat, etc. We were off to Tahuata.
April 29, 2001
Taiohae Bay. Even with 50 other boats, it's still a beautiful place. Surprisingly, Atuona has better supplies. Hiking with other boats and Tracy Smith Taviri, a South African sailor married to Joseph, a great soccer player, hang glider, carver, diver, etc. The two do it all from hang gliding to a traditional umoo (Polynesian clambake). I wish I could speak French better as Joseph had a lot to teach us about Polynesia.
April 30, 2001
After a couple of days in Ua Huka, we tired of the rolling and wind. This may be one of the best islands with the best carvers, but only in settled weather. Over to Anaho Bay, the best anchorage in the Marquesas on the NE side of Nuka Hiva- the kind of place you could stay forever. No roads into this beautiful valley. Just paths.
May 11, 2001
Alex and Drew made a grand entrance arriving by helicopter from the airport into the next valley over from Anaho. Not a bad entrance for two 23 year olds. We hiked over the hill to Anaho while Paul from RENEGADE took their bags around in the dinghy. Alex and Drew will be with us for the next seven weeks.
May 17, 2001
Over to Daniel's Bay on the SW corner of Nuka Hiva. We couldn't leave the Marquesas without going to one of the largest waterfalls in the Southern Hemisphere. This is a beautiful valley, but Heidi caught the same allergy as thirteen years ago and her face swelled up. We still do not know the cause, but suspect the skin of the Mangos. We said goodbye to Natalie and Paul on RENEGADE as they are off to Papeete to haul the boat.
May 21, 2001
Sailed to Haka Hau on Ua Pou. Caught a big Wahu with the new lure. 7 boats bow and stern anchored -- a bit crowded behind the breakwater.
May 23, 2001
Around to Hakatea for a more normal anchorage. Met Pascal who became a friend as well as a tour guide -- exceptional knowledge and seems to be the local expert of any ancient ruins. We had now visited every inhabited island in the Marquesas and spent two months here. If Alex and Drew did not want to go diving in the Tuamotus we would probably still be there. These islands are so beautiful with such great people it could easily be a long-term stay.
Where to now?Previous Log Entry: 3000 Miles to Marquesas
Next Log Entry: Off to the Tuamotus
Have questions or want to share experiences?
If you have questions about their voyaging, or would like to share similar experiences, email Cabot.
What is Cabot's Log?
The following log and pictures are from Cabot and Heidi aboard CHEWINK, their Lyman-Morse Seguin 49 which Cabot built in 1987 and has sailed more than 62,000 miles. The log follows them as they began their second circumnavigation in 2000 through their current adventures in the Caribbean.